Hanfu Making(12) - Yisan Cutting & Sewing Patterns

This section contains Yisan (曳撒, yì sǎn).
Size range: 165/88A to 185/104A.

Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance.

Introduction

Yisan is one of the costumes of the Ming Dynasty, evolving from the Yuan Dynasty Bian Xian Ao (辫线袄), but it is still part of the hanfu system because it has a cross collar and has long been incorporated with Han Chinese elements.

The shape of Yisan is very special. The front part is cut and sewn separately, the upper garment is short from the front, and the lower garment with pleats is connected at the waist. The back part is cut as a whole, the length is equal to the front garment length plus the lower garment length, and there are no pleats like other long garments. There is hem on both sides of Yisan, also called "Er (耳)"

Yisan was mostly worn by military officials or members of the imperial family in the Ming Dynasty, and could be used as riding clothes, and one of the main uniforms of the Jingyiwei officers was Yisan.

The fabric color of Yisan was usually red, blue, dark green, etc., and could be embroidered with Mang (蟒), Feiyu (飞鱼), Douniu (斗牛), and other patterns. The Yisan drawing in this section omits the detailed size drawing after decomposition, so when actually cutting, pay attention to the fabric reserve at the interface of each part and at the closure.

The lower garment part needs to be folded according to the schematic diagram below and the size of each size. The details not specified in the upper garment part can be referred to in the detailed drawing of Zhiduo in section 9. The patterns of Yisan and Zhiduo are similar, and the data of collar, sleeves, bust circumference, and inclination angle of side edges are the same for the same size, only the length of the garment is different.

 

Size chart

The connection between the two lower garments and the body of the Yisan (the two small beveled edges above the hem need to be sewn together)

 

Yisan (曳撒)

More Hanfu Style Making

Section 1: How to make Zhongyi (中衣)

Section 2: How to make Aoqun (袄裙)

Section 3: How to make Ruqun (襦裙)

Section 4: How to make Beizi (褙子)

Section 5: How to make Pan collar Aoqun (盘领袄)

Section 6: How to make Quju (曲裾)

Section 7: How to make Banbi (半臂)

Section 8: How to make Shuhe (裋褐)

Section 9: How to make Zhiduo Zhishen Daopao (直裰/直身/道袍)

Section 10: How to make Panling Pao and Lanshan (盘领袍/襕衫)

Section 11: How to make Shenyi (深衣)

Section 13: How to make improved Hanfu (改良汉服)